Nina Ricci is in the business of selling dreams and, as brand director, it is Margerie Barbes-Petit's job to ensure consumers buy into this. 'The dream of the romantic Prince Charming translates across different ages and countries,' she says.
The softly spoken Parisian, dressed head to toe in her label's creations, is in London to promote the launch of the fragrance Nina L' Elixir, a variation of the original Nina perfume, which launched in 2006, and has sold 11m bottles globally. Barbes-Petit, who oversees the marketing for Nina Ricci fragrances, is confident the latest variant will be similarly successful.
She is clear that hers is not the average marketing job. 'All parts of the role are very different,' says Barbes-Petit. 'It can switch from a highly creative meeting, working with the perfumers to get a good sense of the fragrance, to a more industrial meeting about production.'
Natural aptitude
However, it appears that she can demonstrate the necessary qualities. Perfumer Olivier Cresp, who developed the Nina fragrances, and first worked with Barbes-Petit during her time at French fashion powerhouse YSL, credits her with the gift of 'exceptional senses'.
'It's always easy with her,' he adds. 'She is extremely open and professional and always knows exactly what she wants.'
Barbes-Petit, started her career at the age of 22, having completed her studies at the SKEMA business school in France. Her first role was as an area manager, followed by a stint in exports and then marketing for YSL. 'I have always loved to develop new products, brands and opportunities, and I am very proud to have a job where the products are so visible,' she says.
For the launch of Nina L' Elixir, Barbes-Petit is spearheading a fresh approach to fragrance marketing. The campaign is fronted by up-and-coming pop singer Florrie Arnold. Rather than rely on traditional advertising alone, Nina Ricci has created a music video, in which Florrie sings Blondie's Sunday Girl. The song will also be released as a single.
The heavily branded video features Arnold making her way through an enchanted forest in search of the apple-shaped perfume bottle. Barbes-Petit describes it as a 'new type of communication' and the approach is certainly a first in the often-formulaic business of selling fragrances.
For the majority of consumers, designer perfumes offer an entry-point into a world of opulence they could otherwise never afford. In contrast to previous economic downturns, the premium perfume market has continued to perform strongly. According to Mintel, while in the past, they were perceived as luxuries, today women under the age of 35 are far more likely to view fragrances as an everyday item.
In the 40s, Nina Ricci's son and business manager, Robert, described his mother's fragrances as an 'act of love', and this is a sentiment Barbes-Petit echoes today. 'The brand has always expressed itself through strong imagery, when you see a white dove, it's a universal code that travels across countries,' she says.
To the average consumer, Nina Ricci is better known for its enduringly successful perfume than its clothing. Since its launch in 1948, L'Air du Temps, with its crystal bottle featuring two entwined doves, has become the mainstay of dressing tables across the globe. Indeed, it was what gave Barbes-Petit her first exposure to the fashion house that has been her professional home for the past 10 years.
'As a teenager, I had a miniature of L'Air du Temps,' she says. 'Growing up in the South of France there are all these amazing smells around you, from the seaside to beautiful flowers such as jasmine and this has been a huge influence on me,' she says.At a time when marketers are increasingly obsessed with targeting, quantifying and measuring success, the Nina Ricci approach is a notable exception.
While the brand is targeting a younger demographic than it has previously - as demonstrated by its recent sponsorship of Glee on E4 - it is clear this is based less on overblown science and more on instincts. 'The Nina business plan may be to enlarge our appeal to a younger audience but the "princess" appeal travels across ages,' says Barbes-Petit.
Indeed, the modern-day fairytale positioning has its roots firmly in the brand's history. The Nina L'Elixir brand is a reinterpretation of Fille d'Eve, a perfume that was launched in 1952. 'Heritage is in our DNA but (Nina Ricci) is not a museum,' adds Barbes-Petit. 'Being connected to the past does not mean there is no future.'
Although some consumers may not know the L'Air du Temps name, its bottle and fragrance are enduring. For Nina Ricci the challenge and beauty of perfume marketing is that smell is open to interpretation. 'We are all sensitive to different memories, the smell of perfume can be like a childhood souvenir,' says Barbes-Petit.
Femininity has always been at the heart of the Nina Ricci brand and Barbes-Petit cannot talk about the new fragrance without referring to it as a 'love potion', while her colleagues credit her with being the embodiment of the brand.
This makes it all the more difficult to imagine the expertly coiffured Parisian in a household full of men (she has four sons). Even though her youngest is just eight months old, she is perfectly poised and full of energy about L'Elixir's launch.
As the fragrance is rolled out globally, Barbes-Petit looking forward to travelling further afield. 'When you travel a lot, you get inspired by all kinds of things, from museums to food stores,' she says. 'Everything in life is an inspiration. This is what is important.'
According to Barbes-Petit, the fragrances work hand in hand with the fashion house. The arrival of Peter Copping as artistic director of Nina Ricci in April 2009 has had a huge impact. Copping, who previously worked under Marc Jacobs at Louis Vuitton, is responsible for the pastel tones of the latest ad campaign. 'The fashion and the fragrances are in harmony and we are very consistent,' adds Barbes-Petit.
While fashion loves nothing more than change, the fragrance market is less driven by fluctuating trends. Although 'icon' may be the most overused word in marketing, in the perfume industry, L'Air du Temps may merit the description.
The enduring selling power of a brand that first hit the shelves in 1948 should not be underestimated. Armed with a multi-million-pound marketing budget and riding the wave of a creative renaissance at Nina Ricci, Barbes-Petit hopes L'Elixir finds the same success.
Inside work
1994-2000: Marketing director for feminine fragrances, Yves Saint
Laurent
2000-present: Brand director for fragrances, Nina Ricci
Outside work
Lives: Paris
Family: Married with four sons
Favourite holiday: French Mediterranean coast
Favourite film: Lost in Translation
Favourite book: Perfume by Patrick Suskind