London Fashion Week draws to a close this week, but Tesco must be hoping that its tie-up with the event will prove more enduring, given that the association forms a key tenet of its strategy to promote the relaunch of its clothing offering this autumn.
In what, at face value, looked like a strange move for a chain more closely associated with basic, own-label clothes than cutting-edge fashion, the retailer supported designers at independent fashion showcase On|Off.
Tesco promoted the partnership as a sign of its support for emerging labels; it will supplement this by selling limited-edition pieces from the independent designers on its website, Tesco Direct, as well as showcasing its own exclusive six-piece collection.
However, is this enough to raise its credentials in the fashion world and compete against trendier rivals such as ASOS.com, or is it simply a stunt designed to grab headlines?
Tesco would not reveal whether it intended to make a long-term commitment to independent fashion. Sarah Peters, retail analyst at Verdict Research, thinks that the association is timely, but needs to be substantiated. ‘Tesco has lagged behind its main competitors,' she says. ‘This move will be good, but difficult, as Tesco will need to change perception.'
Sarah Curran, founder and chief executive of luxury fashion website my-wardrobe.com, thinks the association could allow Tesco to tap into a broader and younger fashion-focused consumer group. ‘This type of activity will enable the brand to open itself up to a new audience while being part of long-term brand-perception strategy,' she says.
Canvassing interest
The revamped clothing section of the Tesco Direct site, with an expanded range for its own-label brand F&F, goes live later this year. The retailer is inviting consumers to sign up online for an alert informing them when it is open for business. However, the fact that, where the site asks users to name their other favourite clothing retailer, it provides the options of George at Asda, TU at Sainsbury's, Marks & Spencer and Next, raises questions about whether Tesco's attempt to differentiate itself from its rivals is long-term.
That said, Tesco is following a trend among general retailers to boost their pure-play online fashion sites. Anthony Lucas, senior director and retail expert at professional-services firm Alvarez & Marsal, thinks the supermarkets are raising their game in the category. ‘Grocers need to do something different to stand out in the clothing sector,' he says.
As usual, Tesco appears to be ahead of the curve. While Asda's George clothing range can be purchased online, Sainsbury's has no plans to enable consumers to purchase its TU clothing range on its site, despite extending its online offering into non-food products in July.
Stunt or otherwise, the London Fashion Week tie is indicative of Tesco's drive to position its fashion offering as affordable chic.