Brand Builders: Rapha

Being obsessive is at the very heart of this cycling apparel brand's bid to break away from the pack.

There's something about cyclists - not your average trousers-in-socks-and-perhaps-a-weekend-pedal-along-the-towpath type of cyclist, but your leg-shaving, lycra-wearing, six-hours-in-the-saddle-who-cares-if-the-rain's-horizontal type - that makes them unusually obsessive.

This is the tribe into which Rapha has been born. Rapha, reads the company dictum, exists to develop the best performing and most stylish cycling clothing and accessories in the world. So what, you might ask, and you would reveal yourself as an outsider - one for whom the relative merits of Campy over Shimano or the best wheel-lacing patterns will, mercifully, remain a mystery.

But Rapha is a passion brand and the future, according to founder Simon Mottram, belongs to passion brands. What does a 38-year-old, self-confessed bicycle geek know about such things? In Mottram's case, a lot. A founding partner in brand consultancy Circus, via Interbrand and on to Sapient, he recently found himself with 12 years' experience under his belt and 'the choice between becoming a career consultant or getting out and doing something different'.

These days - just 25 of them so far - Mottram is to be found wandering around a gallery space on London's Brick Lane, wearing some of his own apparel along with rigid, cleated cycling shoes that appear entirely unsuited to the purpose. In fact, this look works toward the chameleon-like quality Mottram displays as he moves between visitors to his brand's launch event - the 'Kings of Pain' exhibition celebrating past masters of the Tour de France, and timed to coincide with this year's Tour.

'Kings of Pain' attracts all types, united presumably by an understanding of the 'glory through suffering' ideal that underpins the Rapha brand.

At the exhibition Mottram talks with equal ease to a camera-toting pensioner about a 40-year-old bike brand, a 30-something affluent City type who falls into Rapha's core audience, and a business journalist about a 'two by two marketing map'. As he does so, his eyes flick anxiously toward incoming visitors, in the hope that one of the Rapha team - Luke Scheybeler or Claire Wilson - is making contact.

This after all, is a selling opportunity, although not overt. Cycling heroes of days gone by - Coppi, Anquetil, Simpson, Merckx, Hinault - stare down from the walls onto a relatively modest display of Rapha products.

It is in keeping with the belief that the brand should not shout, but connect with its customers on a deeper level. The principal sales channel is the www.rapha.cc web site; British cycle stores, says Mottram diplomatically, 'are not temples to retail excellence'.

Instead, this rare 'feel the quality' opportunity is used to demonstrate product attributes. Water is poured over 'amphibious cotton' caps, secure thumb holes on jacket sleeves are fingered, soft Sportswool fabric is stroked, 'bite grips' for zipping jackets on the go are demonstrated. It's this obsession with detail that justifies Rapha's 'super-premium' prices. The short-sleeve jersey is £105, the softshell jacket £175, while Rapha's one 'off the bike' product, a merino wool top, sells for £130.

The display is supplemented by an array of antique cycling apparel and race memorabilia. It all adds to the brand's personality - modern performance gear with a vintage feel. The Rapha name, used subtly on all products, harks back to a 60s road racing team sponsored by French aperitif San Raphael.

It is a formula that Mottram believes will generate desire for cycle clothing, where previously only rational purchase decisions existed. While it is early days, he plans to export the brand to the US, Japan and Australia within two years. The private investors-cum-cycle enthusiasts who have financed Rapha's first year will be approached again.

Rapha's success, Mottram believes, will be based on what he calls 'the triumph of the niche'. 'We've all got so much stuff that when you buy anything from olive oil to garden trowels you're looking for a better, more authentic specialist product. It says more about you, it's more pleasing, it's more of an experience. That's what Rapha is all about.'

TIMELINE

Jul 1998: Simon Mottram visits his local cycle shop and finds 'nothing to buy' among the luridly coloured clothing and accessories.

Dec 2001: Mottram leaves management consultancy Sapient to create a business plan and seek funding for Rapha. It eventually comes from a select breed of angel investors who are also cycling enthusiasts.

1 Apr 2004: Prototype jerseys arrive from manufacturers. They are given to London cycle couriers for some serious product testing.

1 May 2004: E-tail site www.rapha.ccsoft-launches. It is designed, as are all marketing materials, by Luke Scheybeler alongside Mottram.

3 Jul 2004: Rapha launches with the opening of the 'Kings of Pain' exhibition at the Old Truman Brewery on London's Brick Lane. Not coincidentally, it's also the first day of the Tour de France.

9-11 Jul 2004: Rapha takes its branded antique Citroen H van (top speed 40mph) 1200 miles to Limoges for the 240km Etape, a day race for amateur cyclists ahead of the Tour de France going through.

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