Brand Builders: Gentlemen's Tonic

From wet shaves to shiatsu, this men's salon offers London's elite a place to be pampered. Samuel Solley reports.

An old-fashioned, gentlemen's barbershop is, by definition, hardly a new idea. Upmarket outfits such as Trumper, Penhaligon's and Simpsons have been providing a professional wet shave for London's well-heeled for decades.

However, Olivier Bonnefoy has updated the traditional format with Gentlemen's Tonic. The salon retains the exclusive clientele, but the word 'Tonic' points to the innovation: grooming and lifestyle services such as pedicures, Thai massage, shiatsu and acupuncture.

'Women have always had places they could go to for beauty treatments, be it a haircut or massage,' he says. 'Men have traditionally had to visit a barbers and then, well, nothing.'

Bonnefoy's business is part of a growing sector. British men are increasingly willing to spend time and money looking after themselves; they now fork out 拢600m a year on male-grooming products, including 拢23m in the premium category.

There is no doubt which end of the sector Gentlemen's Tonic caters to.

Located in an old mews in Mayfair, the site at first appears undistinguished.

But glance around the corner at the Bentley showroom on Berkeley Square and the Bonhams auction house on Bond Street, and it is clear that the business is not targeting the average man in the street - its clients include financiers, bankers, lawyers and property moguls working in the vicinity.

'I wanted to create something butch but friendly,' says Bonnefoy. 'It needed to be luxurious, but have a purpose, and offer everything under one roof.' At Gentlemen's Tonic, 'everything' stretches to flat-screen TVs, internet access and even PlayStations.

One gadget you will not see, however, is a mobile phone. The salon is a mobile-free zone; a reflection of its desire to be a haven from the rigours of life in the fast lane. 'We want to create quiet here, a place for people to escape,' explains Bonnefoy. 'It needs to be one-on-one and a personal experience'.

On entering the salon, customers are greeted by colonial-style decor.

A waiting area offers a quiet space for a cup of coffee or a glass of mineral water, but Bonnefoy claims that clients will not have to spend more than five minutes here before their treatment begins.

There are a number of different experiences available, from a simple hair-cut and wet shave with hot towels in the barbershop through to an hour-long massage, and a series of special 'packages'. The latter include The Hemingway, which consists of an aromatherapy facial and massage, accompanied by a Bloody Mary.

It is a long way from Bonnefoy's previous career as a banker. Born in Paris, the exuberant French/American worked for the Fimat International Banque in London, trading futures, options and currencies. He admits that he found the banking world great fun, but eventually decided that 'money can't buy everything'. In 2003 he quit to build his own business, and in November last year he opened his first salon.

So far, his decision appears to have paid off. Gentlemen's Tonic, set up with a budget of 拢650,000, has already broken even. It has 1200 clients, with 800 classed as regulars, having visited more than four times.

But Bonnefoy wants more. He wants the business to sell its own male-grooming products rather than the third-party brands it currently stocks. And he wants to expand his one salon into a chain. There are plans for more sites in London, then outlets elsewhere in the UK and even in continental Europe.

Bonnefoy looked at clubs, hotels and restaurants - 'all fiercely competitive and prone to failure' - before settling on a men's salon. He is convinced there is room in this sector for his ambitious growth plans since competition is limited - only shops such as The Refinery in central London offer similar services.

'There are places about, but they are old-fashioned and fuddy-duddy, and have not moved on,' he insists. 'They can only trade on their pedigree for so long. Theirs are legacy stories, and there needs to be more than that.'

TIMELINE

May 2003: Olivier Bonnefoy begins planning the launch of Gentlemen's Tonic with a 拢650,000 budget.

October 2003: Leaves his job as head of the global macro-products division at the UK branch of Fimat International Banque in order to research the viability of the salon.

June 2004: Hires Melanie Hills, also an escapee from the City, to join the company as marketing director, and begins the search for a suitable site in central London.

December 2004: Gentlemen's Tonic opens in Mayfair.

February 2005: The company is profitable for the first time.

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